For those who crave the raw, untouched beauty of Tasmania’s wilderness, the Gordon River offers an experience like no other. With Southwest Expeditions, we embarked on an unforgettable overnight journey aboard the 20m steel ketch Stormbreaker, combining pristine landscapes with a rich tapestry of history from one of Australia’s most significant environmental movements.
Stormbreaker moored in Strahan
Our adventure started in the picturesque town of Strahan, where we boarded Stormbreaker for an overnight expedition up the Gordon River. With just our party of five and two crew members, the journey promised to be an intimate and uniquely tailored experience.
Crossing Macquarie Harbour, we passed salmon fish farms dotting the water—floating pontoons confining their aquatic residents. We were lucky enough to have a superb rainbow framing the harbour and fish farms. The ketch itself is designed for adventurers at heart. It’s functional, comfortable, and brimming with character, though luxury seekers may find it a bit too rugged, but for those who want to feel like true explorers, it’s perfect.
Macquarie harbour
Family owned and operated, Sean navigated the ketch while sharing stories of the region. Kelly, the other half of the crew, ensured we were well-fed and cared for, offering delicious smoked salmon, cheese and biscuits to enjoy on the deck as we made our way across the harbour to the mouth of the Gordon River.
Reflections on the Gordon River
As Stormbreaker slipped into the Gordon River, the world seemed to shift. Towering rainforest trees lined the riverbanks, their reflections forming a flawless mirror on the still waters. It was as if time had paused in this World Heritage-listed wilderness. Photographic opportunities abounded as every bend revealed yet another breath-taking vista.
Moving up the Gordon River
Unlike the larger, crowded catamarans, Stormbreaker holds special permission to venture further upriver, reaching the furthest navigable point near Sir John Falls before the waters grow too shallow. This secluded spot often serves as a pickup point for Franklin River rafters the following morning. On our trip, however, no rafters were scheduled to be picked up, leaving us to enjoy this unspoilt wilderness and ketch to ourselves.
After mooring up for the night we stepped ashore for a brief stroll to the falls. Too cold to swim in the crisp evening May air, the breath-taking beauty of the location more than compensated. The soothing sound of cascading water and the untouched wilderness created a truly peaceful and immersive moment in nature.
Sir John Falls
Roughly a 10min walk away from the falls is a sturdy bunk house, a remnant of the Franklin River protests. Built to house police during the environmental campaign of the 1980s, it remains intact, with bunk beds, a small kitchenette, and an outdoor toilet for any hikers coming through the area. Inside, we found a guestbook, where adventurers from around the world had left their marks. Adding our names and message felt like carving a small piece of ourselves into the legacy of this wild place.
Bunk house near Sir John Falls
Back on board Stormbreaker, dinner was a feast of fresh Tasmanian salmon, cooked to perfection. As night fell, the deck became our front-row seat to a celestial show. Enhanced by the sense of wilderness all around us. The stars—untouched by light pollution—lit up the velvet black sky. It was a moment of reflection and a humbling reminder of nature’s vastness.
Lying on the deck star gazing
Retiring for the night the gentle sway of the river lulled us to sleep in the cozy forward bunks, ready for the next day’s journey back to Strahan.
At dawn, the river was cloaked in mist, transforming the landscape into something otherworldly. Over breakfast, we watched the fog curl around the trees and imagined what secrets this ancient forest might hold. Could the elusive Thylacine still roam here, undetected? In the hushed morning stillness, it seemed entirely possible.
Early morning on the Gordon River
As we left the Gordon River and re-entered Macquarie Harbour, the water was astonishingly calm, its surface so smooth it reflected the sky like a mirror. Even the crew remarked on its rare stillness. By midday, we were back in Strahan, bringing our adventure to a close but leaving a piece of our hearts behind in the wilderness.
Stormbreaker
The Gordon River experience is far more than a river cruise. It’s a journey that immerses you in the untouched beauty of Tasmania’s wild southwest. An invitation to disconnect from the clamour of modern life and reconnect with the timeless beauty of nature. Whether you’re a history buff, a photographer, or simply an adventurer at heart, this journey will leave you with memories that will last a lifetime.
So, pack your sense of wonder and step aboard Stormbreaker, let go of the modern world, and lose yourself in the timeless wonder of the Gordon River.